reverse perming and relaxing

This is a very similar procedure to perming, but instead of waving or curling straight hair, it straightens wavy or curly hair. Straightening Caucasion hair is generally referred to as ‘reverse perming’, using ammonium thioglycollate, the permanent wave chemical. Straightening Afro/Caribbean hair is known as ‘relaxing’ and is carried out using creams or solutions containing either sodium or calcium hydroxide. The chemistry of these processes is exactly the same as it is in perming, but it is potentially more risky. This is because it tends to be carried out more often, with a greater chance of overlapping the processing, and the weakened hair breaks in the overlap.

Also, the act of ‘straightening’ the hair out during the processing can overstretch the hair shafts and leave insufficient elasticity for the hair to withstand normal styling procedures. It is always best to have straightening done by a professional who can carefully monitor the process.

It is essential to have consistent and regular intensive conditioning treatments to restore moisture to the hair and prevent breakage. Use a deep conditioning treatment three to four days before and after each process, and always use conditioner after shampooing. For fine, limp hair that has been permed to add body, carry on using body building shampoo and conditioner.

Afro/Caribbean hair that is being regularly ‘relaxed’ needs maximum care, using remoisturising shampoo and conditioner. Appropriate protective cream should be applied before styling the hair..